Christie’s opened the week with its Magnificent Jewels on 11 November in Geneva, followed by the digital Jewels Online. Among the star attractions was the Mellon Blue, a fabulous 9.51-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ring once owned by Rachel Lambert Mellon. With its VVS1 clarity, Type IIb classification, and blazing saturation, the stone typified the near-mythic rarity of top-tier blue diamonds. Its blend of historical provenance and gemological prestige positioned it as the crown jewel of Christie’s 2025 offering.

Phillips had a few stars of its own. Among them was the Vanderbilt Sapphire, a 42.68-carat sugar-loaf Kashmir sapphire set in a Tiffany & Co. brooch. Coming from the storied Vanderbilt family, the unheated stone impressed with its rich Royal Blue color and exceptional provenance. It soared to CHF 2,876,000 at Phillips’ Geneva sale, nearly triple its low estimate.

For collectors seeking potential and creative freedom, The Rainbow Collection—a trove of 300 unmounted colored diamonds—offered pure possibility. From vivid pinks to fiery oranges and steely greys, the assortment was both a designer’s palette and a connoisseur’s dream.

Christie’s digital counterpart, Jewels Online, further broadened the market. With over CHF 8.3
million achieved, the sale showcased signed pieces, vibrant gemstones, and accessible diamonds, welcoming newer collectors and offering seasoned buyers a more discreet, curated browsing experience.

On November 12, Sotheby’s Geneva presented a remarkable narrative of royal heritage and extra-ordinary gemstones across two consecutive sales: Royal & Noble Jewels in the afternoon and High Jewelry in the evening. With a combined total surpassing CHF 41 million, the day was steeped in both opulence and history.

The undisputed highlight was Napoleon’s Lost Diamond Brooch, dating to around 1810, centered with an 13.04-carat diamond and framed by nearly a hundred old-mine cuts. Said to have been abandoned in Napoleon’s carriage during his retreat from Waterloo, the brooch remained within the House of Hohenzollern for over two centuries. Its dramatic sale, reaching roughly CHF 3.5 million, nearly 18 times its high estimate, was a testament to the enduring magnetism of imperial provenance.

Further deepening the Napoleonic narrative was a 132.66-carat green beryl, believed to have been worn during Napoleon’s 1804 coronation. Modestly estimated yet monumental in historical value, the gem for nearly 20 times its high estimate.

A gentler, more romantic lineage appeared in the 13.86-carat light pink diamond ring of Princess Neslişah Sultan, while the natural pearl and diamond hair ornament of Kunigunde of Saxony celebrated 19th-century aristocratic aesthetics through its Sévigné-style reinterpretation.

Sotheby’s evening sale had earlier offered a contem-porary rarity with The Glowing Rose, a 10.08-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond of exceptional purity, but it was withdrawn from the sale.

Together, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s delivered a tapestry of jewels spanning centuries, from imperial relics to modern masterpieces. Rare colored diamonds dominated demand, royal provenance fueled emotional bidding, and online formats expanded accessibility. Geneva’s Fall 2025 auctions were not just sales—they were a celebration of the enduring allure of jewels.

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The 38th edition of the IGC gathered leading researchers, laboratory directors, and specialists in gemology and gem science from around the world. True to its tradition, the conference maintained a scientific focus, prioritizing research and discovery over commercial interests.

The program was organized into thematic sessions encompassing the full spectrum of gem-related disciplines: the history and curation of gemstones, pearls and amber, general gemology and research, corundum (sapphires and rubies), jade, and diamonds.

After the opening remarks, Dr. Jayshree Panjikar (IGC Executive secretary) offered a brief history of the IGC, followed by the Opening Session, Gemmology and Greece. Several experts, including the author, who also represented ICA, explored the mineralogy of Greek gemstones, ancient jewelry, gem education in Greece, the art of glyptography, and the gems and lewels of Greece’s Royal and prominent personalities.

Session 1: History and Museums, chaired by Karen Fox, featured talks by experts on the history of selected gemstones and their mining, as well as museum collections featuring gems and jewelry from world-renowned collections, including fancy-color diamonds, historic emeralds, and traditional garnet cutting techniques.

Pearls and Amber were featured in Session 2, chaired by Dr. Michael Krzemnicki. Presentations described advances in pearl cultivation, new classification schemes, and inclusion studies in amber as well as amber from Myanmar.

Session 3: Gemmology 1, chaired by Dr. Ahmadjan Abduriyim, focused on mineralogical research topics such as pink fluorite, mineral pigments in jasper, and a review of Fe-Ti charge transfers and their application to minerals and gems.

Session 4: Gemmology 2, chaired by Dr. Karl Schmetzer, and featured a discussion on zoisite and its many colors, blue rose quartz, and pink-orange gem quality euclase from Brazil.

Chaired by Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul, Session 5: Gemmology 3 included presentations by experts on typomorphic features of tourmalines of the Malkhan pegmatite field, studies on how colored gemstones crystallize at depth in East Africa, hessonite garnet, Hurlbutite from Myanmar, as well as glass imitations of larimar.

Session 6: Gemmology 4, chaired by Prof. Dr. Stefanos Karampelas, featured speakers on a variety of topics relating to spinel origin, emerald enhancement, and the Salininha emerald deposit in Brazil, among others.

Dr. Ulrich Henn chaired Session 7: Corundum 1, and welcomed several speakers with presentations on noble gas in corundum, age dating and origin, and age determination of yellow sapphires.

Session 8: Corundum 2, chaired by Dr. Jayshree Panjikar, continued with presentations on Greenland rubies, blue sapphire from Brazil, and transparent brown sapphire.

Session 9: Corundum 3, chaired by Shane Mcclure featured five presentations discussing heat treatment detection, trace element studies, effects of gamma irradiation on corundum, the challenges of detecting treatment of ruby and sapphire in the Thai market, and Padparadscha sapphires and heat treatment.

Session 10: Jade, chaired by Thye Sun Tay, showcased three presentations on comparison of green Fei Cui from Myanmar, Guatamala, Italy, and Russia, as well as origin determination of purple jadeite, and finally a description of dyed purple jade from Myanmar.

The IGC conference wrapped up with Session 11: Diamonds, chaired by Prof. Dr. Emmanuel Fritsch. Among the topics were diamonds from the Argyle Mine in Australia, gemological characteristics of diamonds with yellow and red luminescence, identification of melee synthetic colored diamonds, diamonds from Thailand, diamonds from Myanmar, and nitrogen aggregates in yellow HPHT and CVD synthetic diamonds.

During the event, the group took an excursion to the Lavrion Mines and Cape Sounion, two of the significant sites in ancient Attica, connected historically by the rich silver and lead mines of Lavrion that funded Athens.

Complementing the technical program, the Pre-Conference Excursion visited geologically and archaeo- logically significant sites across Northern and Central Greece, including Meteora, Mount Olympus, and Vergina.

The Post-Conference Tour led participants to beautiful Santorini, where the visit combined geological study with archaeological exploration and cultural sightseeing.

Established in the 1930s, with its first formal meeting held in 1952, the IGC has upheld a long-standing tradition of scientific excellence and international collaboration, inviting delegate participation from gemological institutions worldwide.

The IGC 2025 in Athens continued this tradition, and provided distinguished gathering at the forefront of gemological science, showcasing a variety of cutting-edge research, methodological innovation, advances in treatment detection, and the integration of gemology with heritage, geology, and technology. The city of Athens, with its unique blend of ancient heritage and modern academic infrastructure, provided a fitting and inspiring setting for this landmark event.

For more information on the IGC Athens event, visit the IGC website: https://www.igc-gemmology.org

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The season’s major auctions, conducted by Christie’s and Sotheby’s in Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York, continue to affirm the trend that color is still in control. While important emeralds, sapphires and rubies took a large piece of the spotlight, other colorful gems, such as Paraiba tourmaline, spinel, alexandrite, and even some spectacular imperial green jadeites, were definitely not left in the shadows.

The global pandemic changed our lives in many respects and forced us to search for new ways to conduct business. The important gem and jewelry auctions were no exception, and we saw the normally live sales give way to online events.

Previewing the lots has always been an important part of any auction, but the ongoing health crisis limited viewing to by appointment- only, and then only in particular time slots. While some auction houses instituted a protective glass separation, others organized an entirely separate space where only a very restricted number of people could attend.

In 2021, with the worst of the pandemic hopefully behind us, the seasonal live auctions seemed to do better than those in 2020. After registration, it was possible for a small number of clients to attend in person. I was fortunate to be able to preview the jewels in Geneva and then attend the auction.

It was a pleasure to hold some of these magnificent treasures in my hand, not only in Geneva, but also pieces that were flown in for viewing from New York and Hong Kong.

At the major auctions in these three cities, we observed a stable demand for high-quality colored gems. Buyers from around the world, attracted to the rarity of the stone as well as the brand name of the creator, kept the prices relatively stable.

As in past years, the most popular colored gems were stunning Colombian emeralds, Kashmir sapphires, and Burmese sapphires and rubies. Except for the emeralds—generally certified with Insignificant or Minor oil, which is a common practice—the other colored gems that reached premium prices were generally non-treated and non-heated.

Besides the Big Three, other colorful gems attracted a great deal of attention. These included spinels, alexandrites, Paraiba tourmalines, and Imperial jadeite, which do not appear regularly in the major auctions outside of Hong Kong.

As in the past, jewels made by global luxury brands achieved premium prices. This was especially true for pieces from a significant period or those set with exceptional gems. Antique jewels continued their upward trajectory. On these pages are just a few of the spectacular colored gemstone jewels that showed the color-full magnificence on sale at the major auctions, along with their final sales price.

Going Once, Going Twice, Going Green

Emeralds and emerald jewelry were a large portion of the jewels on the block. Many were unsigned; some came from the major brands; others were antique pieces; and some even had impressive pedigrees or interesting stories. Prices ranged from a few thousand to well over a million dollars. The vast majority sold within their estimated range, while some went way above.

As expected, those with an interesting story or name brand recognition—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Harry Winston, and Graff—commanded the highest prices, as did those with insignificant or minor treatment. As for origin, Colombian emeralds were the hands-down favorites.

In 1947, Harry Winston was crowned by Cosmopolitan Magazine as the “King of Diamonds.” It was believed that he owned more than one-third of the world’s diamonds including the Hope and Oppenheimer. Yet, Winston also created fabulous colored gemstone jewels. Several of the brand’s emerald pieces up for auction from the Noble Collections commanded high prices.

One example was a pair of emerald (21.20 and 20.20 carats) and diamond pendant earclips from the 1970s. Of Colombian origin, the emeralds exhibited a moderate amount of oil. The pair sold for CHF1,230,000, nearly three times the highest estimate of CHF470,000 at Sotheby’s in Geneva.

Another Harry Winston piece, also from the same important Noble Collection, was an impressive emerald and diamond brooch-pendant. The 80.45-ct Colombian emerald was described as having saturated color and fine purity, with minor oil. It sold for CHF3,166,000 just under its highest estimate of CHF3,300,000.

At Sotheby’s New York, a Harry Winston emerald and diamond necklace, in platinum, pulled in US$2,803,000, above its highest estimate of US$2,500,000. With insignificant to minor treatment, the Colombian emeralds weighed between 34.01 and 13.12 carats.

Another Harry Winston piece was a 39-ct heart-shaped cabochon Colombian emerald with moderate oil, medium strong saturation. It sold way above its estimate of CHF28,000 – 42,000 Sotheby’s in Geneva for CHF151,200.

Cartier-signed emerald jewels were also on the block as seen in a 12.16-ct Colombian cushion-cut emerald and diamond ring in platinum at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong. With no indications of clarity enhancement, medium dark bluishgreen and medium strong saturation, it sold within its estimate for HKD5,983,000.

An unsigned ring with a superb octagonal step-cut 12.50-ct Colombian emerald with no indications of clarity enhancement, sold for HKD10,450,000 at Christies in Hong Kong.

Another unsigned Colombian emerald, this one weighing 24.38 carats, showing minor oil, also reached over US$1,000,000. It sold at Sotheby’s in Geneva for CHF927,500.

An unsigned bracelet with nineteen Colombian emeralds weighing a total of 23.80 carats with insignificant to minor treatment, sold at Christie’s Hong Kong in the middle of its range, for HKD1,000,000.

A few unmounted emeralds were also for sale, including a 108.12-ct heartshaped carved cabochon. Of Colombian origin with moderate oil, it was described as having typical inclusions and a few visible pyrite crystals. It sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for CHF81,900 within its estimate of CHF65,000 – 110,000.

Also unmounted and of Colombian origin, with insignificant clarity enhancement, were a modified rectangular step-cut 288.38-ct emerald and a square step-cut 272.51-ct emerald. The pair sold at Christie’s New York for US$600,000, more than double the high estimate of US$250,000.

Bidding up the Blues

Sapphires also occupied a popular space at the auctions with Kashmir sapphires as ever the most coveted, followed by gems from Myanmar.

Bvlgari had a number of pieces that sold above their estimated prices. One was a 25.29-ct cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire ring, flanked by two diamonds set in platinum. The stone was described as Royal Blue, medium deep color, strongly saturated, with an overall high degree of clarity.

One of the crowning items was a 19th-century crown from a Royal Family, originally owned by Queen Maria II, Queen of Portugal and the Algarves (1819-1853), and later by William, Prince of Hohenzollern (1864-1927). Circa 1840s, it featured octagonal and oval Burmese noheat sapphires and old-cut diamonds. It sold at Christie’s Geneva for CHF1,770,000, five times its highest estimate of CHF350,000.

A noted 1930s Kashmir no-heat sapphire and diamond brooch, formerly in the collection of Maureen Constance Guinness, Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava, who was famous for her travels and philanthropy, was one of the star lots at Sotheby’s Geneva. Set with a 55.19-ct oval and a 25.97-ct cushion sapphire, the jewel was accompanied by a copy of the inventory from Hariot Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, the Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava (1843-1936) that mentions: Two large sapphires set with diamonds as pendant – given me by people of Punjaub & sent after my return.

In keeping with family tradition, the sapphires were mounted in the brooch by Cartier in the 1930s. It sold for CHF3,529,000, above its high estimate of CHF2,800.000.

At the same sale, an unheated 11.33-ct step-cut Kashmir sapphire, set between triangular diamond shoulders and framed with baguette diamonds, sold for CHF1,012,200, above its highest estimate of CHF800,000. Another unsigned no-heat 16.33- ct cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring sold for nearly the same price, CHF1,134,000, just under its high estimate of CHF1,200,000 at Christie’s Geneva.

Ruby Reds

Several important rubies were sold at the auctions. Among them was an antique cushion 6.04-ct Burmese pigeon blood red ruby and diamond ring that sold for HKD14,050,000 at Christie’s Hong Kong. It showed no indications of heating.

Graff pieces in particular featured strongly. One of the world’s most recognized modern jewelers and a market-maker at auctions, Laurence Graff began his career as a bench jeweler in London doing repairs and making small pieces of jewelry. He founded his first retail shop under his own name in 1962 and, by the early 1970s, he created Graff Diamond Limited, which eventually became the single name Graff that is renowned today throughout the world.

A Graff piece for sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong was a ruby and diamond necklace set with 77.5 carats of rubies and 41.20 carats of diamonds. It, too, sold, within its estimated range for HKD2,520,000.

One of the most expensive jewels at Sotheby’s Hong Kong was a 9.10-ct Burmese no-heat ruby and diamond ring in platinum by Cartier, that settled for HKD18,930,000. The ruby was described as Burmese origin, with a medium deep purplish red color, medium strong saturation and typical inclusions and blemishes.

Fourteen oval Burmese no-heat rubies weighing a total of 28.10 carats, some considered pigeon blood red, sold at Christie’s Hong Kong for HKD1,625,000, less than its high estimate of HKD3,000,000.

One of the more spectacular prices was reached by a cushion-cut 13.02-ct Burmese no-heat ruby, accented by diamonds. Mounted by Carvin French, it was sold by a distinguished collection to benefit a charitable foundation. The hammer went down at Sotheby’s New York for US$2,500,500, above its high estimate of US$2,000,000. The ruby was a medium slightly purplish pinkish red, richly saturated, and slightly included.

Not all rubies attaining high prices were Burmese. A 6.86-ct cushion Afghan ruby and diamond ring by Cartier drew a lot of attention, selling at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong for HKD3,780,000, well above its high estimate of HKD2,400,000. Set in platinum, accented by brilliant cut diamonds, it was described as medium slightly purplish red color, with no indications of heating.

Mozambican rubies were also on sale, including a 10.13-ct ruby ring in platinum from Tiffany that sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, for HKD7,798,000-nearly double its high estimate of HKD4,000,000. It was described as no-heat, medium red, strong saturation, few natural inclusions, and exceptional quality for a Mozambican ruby.

And the Magnificent Others

Aside from the Big Three, the auctions offered many other fine colored gemstone jewels.

Spinel has surged in popularity over the last few years, and several pieces of spinel jewelry were up for sale. Of note were several rings, including a 32.87-ct cushion-shaped stone from Tajikistan, with diamond accents, which sold above its estimate for CHF300,000 at Christie’s in Geneva.

A 10.39-ct Burmese spinel, with no indications of clarity enhancement, sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong for HKD1,134,000, just under its highest estimate.

An impressive bracelet featuring 15 Burmese no-heat spinels, weighing 36.20 carats, sold at Christie’s Hong Kong for HKD4,750,000, above the highest estimate of HKD2,800,000.

Paraiba tourmaline was also a big hit at the auctions. A Lorraine Schwartz 4.22-ct Brazilian Paraiba ring sold at Christie’s New York for US$112,500.

Another Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline, weighing 14.20 carats, with indications of heating and accented by diamonds, in gold, realized HKD6,250,000 at Christie’s Hong Kong.

A few alexandrite jewels were sold, including an 18K gold ring set with a 3.51-ct cushion-cut gem decorated with various cuts of diamonds. Of Brazilian origin, with no evident treatments, the degree and quality of the color change was judged as excellent. It exhibited blue-green color in daylight and purple-pink under incandescent light. It and sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong for HKD378,000 above its high estimate of HKD280,00.

While a fair number of jadeite jewels were offered, there were only a few imperial green jadeite pieces, including a pair of Burmese jadeite earrings and matching ring, offered at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.. With no indications of treatment, the 24.85-ct ring sold for HKD5,983,000, 50% above the high estimate, while the earrings (13.30 and 12.20 carats), sold for HKD6,951,000, also 50% above their high estimate.

Photos are courtesy of the auction house mentioned.

• Trade Shows
• The November Auctions
• Colombia – New Realities in the Emerald Industry
• Breaking Boundaries – Astaguru
• An Explosion of Color

The post Color-full Magnificence at the World’s Major Auctions appeared first on Incolor Magazine.

Long before jadeite was named the King of Jades, people were using jadeite and nephrite to make ritual utensils and ornaments. Following the Bronze Age, however, the prehistoric jade culture in Europe soon disappeared. In America, natives used jadeite not only in jewelry, but also in ceremonial objects dating back 4,000 years. For civilizations such as the Mayans and Aztecs, jadeite was the most valuable gem until the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century.

In Asia, jadeite has been used to make ceremonial utensils since the Stone Age. This tradition lasted from the rope writing epoch to the Yasui era. Until the modern Nara era, jadeite culture had declined slightly in Japan.

Nephrite has been used in Chinese art for more than 1,000 years. Jadeite, on the other hand, was introduced into China only in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties.

Burma’s history and love affair with jadeite is also relatively recent and can be related to the development of the Chinese love of jadeite. The gem arrived in China around 1784 and was greatly treasured by the Qing Imperial family. Jadeite court necklaces were only worn when the Emperor and his fellow councilors held official functions; officials ranked level five or below were forbidden to possess or wear court necklaces. High ranking officials, however, decorated their headdress with tubular jadeite—Ling Guan—and a peacock feather.

Jadeite has been a symbol of supreme status and extreme wealth. Bangles and rings were given by members of the Qing court as gifts and tributes; only ladies from families with an honorable pedigree were allowed to wear such gifts since jadeite was a symbol of one’s high status.

Jade’s diverse rich colors, the excellent hardness and toughness, plus the fact that it can be carved into large objects of supreme quality made it the most beloved gem for the people of China, from the emperor to the common man.

Starting at the beginning of the 19th century, jadeite became popular, due probably to the Empress Dowager Cixi, who adored the auspicious gem more than anything else. It was the first time in recent history that the demand influenced the price, which reached the sky for fine jadeite.

After the death of the Empress Dowager in 1908, political instability followed, and a great number of Imperial jadeite treasures were removed from the palace and sold to the public. As a result, many of these treasures, including court necklaces, were lost forever. Some may have been taken out of China, while others may have been re-cut or re-set into other pieces of jewelry.

The original definition of the two Chinese characters, fei cui, which stands for jadeite today, attests to the preeminence of this special gemstone. Yi WuZhi (The Book of Foreign Matters) explains, “Cui, a red bird resembling a male swallow, is named Fei, whereas the female green bird is named Cui, and its feathers are used as adornments.” Cui was a very rare and precious bird in ancient times, and it was hunted for its exceptional and bright-colored feathers. Jadeites, which come in a wide range of attractive colors, were coined Fei Cui for their beauty and high value.

The author examining the jadeite and spinel necklace featured opposite.

The gem also has variable transparency and structure, leading various scholars and merchants to have different classifications depending on their perspective. Jadeite is divided mainly into a series of green (the most diverse), purple, red-yellow and white-colorless. The green series includes imperial green, apple green, yellow poplar green, bean green, spinach green and many other varieties.

The purple series includes pink purple, violet, eggplant purple, blue purple and other varieties. Lavender is the second most sought-after color after imperial green. The red-yellow series is divided into red and yellow varieties, while the white-colorless series includes white opaque to colorless translucent varieties. There can also be two or more colors in one piece of jadeite. The interlocking mineral structure of jadeite is tighter than nephrite, which makes it tougher with a smoother texture. This is one of the reasons why jadeite is mostly used for jewelry while nephrite is generally used for carving.

In metaphysics, jade is considered to be a spiritual gemstone. If worn close to the skin, the stone’s energy is transferred to the wearer, resulting in a healthy influence.

As for the jadeite itself, it receives positive aura from the wearer, thus improving its color and translucency. Jadeite is a mineral aggregate composed of a sodium chrome pyroxene and omphacite.

The chemical formula is NaAlSi2O6, and it can contain Cr, Fe, Ca, Mg, Mn, V, Ti and other elements, giving jadeite covers that span almost the entire spectrum. Its hardness is much higher than any other gem, which is why it can be carved without breaking. The common structures of jadeite are interwoven and granular fibers, translucent to opaque, oily to glassy. The refractive index is 1.66 (spot test); relative density is 3.34; and it measures 6.5–7 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Myanmar is still the main producing area of jadeite in the world, supplying more than 95% of gem-grade jadeite. Other nations also produce jade, including Guatemala, Russia, Kazakhstan and Japan, but the quality and quantity are far from those of Myanmar.

To understand what makes jadeite jade so unique and, in particular, to understand the characteristics of the so called Imperial jade, we have to look at a number of factors.

Jadeite and nephrite are generally referred to as “jade.” What makes jadeite more desirable than nephrite is the quality of the material.

In Chinese culture, jadeite is generally referred to as “hard jade” and nephrite as “soft jade.” Green jadeite represents vigor and energy of life, and is the most favored gem by customers and collectors. Called the soul of jadeite, green is undoubtedly the most important color. Normally, we estimate jadeite color in terms of saturation, brightness, uniformity and purity.

Unlike diamonds and other gemstones, the beauty of jadeite comes from the luminosity within, due to its pure internal structure that makes its color bright and vibrant. A high-quality jadeite has an evenly distributed and highly saturated green.

Imperial jadeite has excellent quality among all-natural jadeites; consequently, it is the rarest and the most precious. It is as clean as glass, and has a pure, bright, thick and evenly distributed pure green color.

Characteristics of Jade

There are a number of criteria that are used in determining the value of jade.

The Texture of jadeite can be fine, medium or coarse. The tighter the fibrous and crystalline interlocking structure, the finer the texture. That has to do with the distribution consistency and evenness of the grain within the material, which enables light to penetrate the stone to create translucency. The finer it is means it can be more finely polished, thus making it more valuable.

Translucency is another criterion in determining top quality jadeite. A result of the above-mentioned structures is the degree of transparency—even the highest quality jadeite is never transparent. Jadeite’s translucency can range from opaque to glass-like or glassy. The higher the translucency, the rarer and more desirable is the stone. Top quality jadeite is semi-transparent, and the finer the grain distribution is, the higher is the quality. Granular clouds of milky patches should not be present.

Clarity characteristics should not be confused with color roots that will lower the quality of jade, but that are not inclusions. Jadeite color can often be dotted or striped and change from darker to lighter. Darker colors are called color roots. Although the existence of color roots can be used as a sign to judge whether the color of jadeite is natural or has been enhanced, it also leads to uneven color distribution, which reduces the value.

Color is the most important characteristic. It is always the first thing that will attract buyers. As for every colored gemstone, color is the most important factor in judging a gem; the more even is the distribution of color, the finer it is. Color is a combination of hue, saturation and tone. Hue is the kind of color (green in imperial jadeite); saturation is the intensity of color; and tone is the lightness or darkness of the hue.

Top quality Imperial jadeite can be described as follows:

● a very intense pure green color, ideally that of vivid “emerald” green, although even the finest jadeite tends to be slightly yellowish-green rather than bluish-green.

● a high saturation—more intense color—and sometimes this saturation is described as striking or even “vulgar.”

● a tone of medium to medium dark. The distribution of color (all of the above) must be even throughout the material with no roots or brown or whitish shades.

The second most important color is lavender. Jadeite with a fine texture and excellent translucency is rare, and the color is usually much paler than less refined material. Therefore, the desirability and value of the stone will be based on the balance between the intensity of color and translucency. The finest colorless jadeite has a smooth texture, glass-like translucency, no gray or blue tint, and is free from natural inclusions.

The Cut does not affect the value of jadeite as much as color, texture and translucency. Because of the availability and yield of the material, however, bangles, hoops, beads and large cabochons are generally priced higher than other shapes of comparable quality. Top quality jadeite is usually cut from the veins or patches of color in a big stone boulder. More than half of the jadeite boulders mined are of no commercial value, and the remaining usable material mostly produces low to medium quality commercial material. It is very rare that a boulder contains veins that could produce the vivid emerald green, fine texture and glass-like translucency of “Imperial Green” jadeite, and even more rare to have enough material to produce a bangle or numerous beads to make into a necklace.

The Size is, of course, a factor that affects the value of any gem; the bigger it is, the more expensive is the gem. The most costly and desirable types of jadeite jewelry are bead necklaces. Top-quality jadeites are often referred to as ‘old mine’ jadeites originating from the reputed mines in Hpakan in Burma. Their dense structure, fine crystals, even color and high translucency deem such specimens to be the best in the world. However, such exceptional jadeite boulders are extremely scarce and relatively small in size, jadeite beads that could be cut and polished from these rough are mostly 5mm to 10mm in diameter.

Necklaces consists of bead of 14mm to 17 mm matched in color and of superb quality are extremely rare and it is a wonder of Nature when one appears on the market.

In terms of treatments, it should be noted that the varieties of jadeite that have undergone enhancements, such as pickling, glue injection, waxing and dyeing, appeared only in the second half of the 20th century. Treated jades will thus not appear in antique or period jewelry. It is also needless to mention that superior quality Imperial Jadeite has not undergone any treatment to enhance its appearance or color.

Considering price, the Chinese have a saying: Buy expensively but don’t buy wrong. Imperial Jadeite is valued by connoisseurs not only in the East but also in the West.

Jades at Auction

Taking all of the above characteristics in consideration, plus provenance, it is clear why there is such a variation in the prices jade jewelry fetches at auction. To narrow down the number of record-breaking sales of jade, we focus on these pages on Imperial Jade, while offering a few examples of lavender jade and multi-colored pieces for comparison. As you will see, the prices commanded are not at all insignificant.

Looking back in history, one of the most magnificent jade necklaces ever to appear on the market is that owned by Mrs Barbara Hutton. The heiress to the Woolworth empire, she was one of the most important jewelry collectors in the 20th century, with an amazing collection of exquisite gems. Every piece of jewelry in her collection was worthy of special mention.

Among Hutton’s favorites were jadeite jade and nephrite, which were introduced to her by the owner of a San Francisco- based jewelry store, Abe Gump. Gump specialized in Oriental objets d’art and it has been said that even when he was blind, he could appreciate a fine quality jade or fine jade carving just by touching it.

Although the majority of Hutton’s vast collection was ornamental, she had some magnificent jadeite jewels. Her famous jadeite necklace consists of 27 beads measuring 15.40 mm to 19.20 mm, exhibiting perfect proportions, a luminous glow from within, rich green color and so perfectly matching that they must have been carved from the same boulder.

Jadeite beads involve immense waste, so jadeite bead necklaces are the most valuable and sought-after pieces of jadeite jewelry. The original provenance of this prominent necklace remains a mystery. The one thing we do know is
that these 27 superbly matched green beads of superior quality appeared in Europe during the early 1930s. Since jadeite is different from other gems generally found in the West, in terms of structure and hardness, it is highly probable that this necklace could only have been cut and assembled in China, where artisans had the savoir faire and experience with jadeite.

Considering price, the Chinese have a saying:

“Buy expensively but don’t buy wrong.”

Cartier must have acquired the jadeite necklace and sold it to Hutton’s family before her marriage to Prince Mdivani, around 1933. It remained in her possession for about 20 years, after which she gave it to her childhood friend, Louise van Alen. The jadeite bead necklace was kept in that family until 1988, when it was offered at auction in Geneva as part of Princess Nina Mdivani’s (Hutton title after her marriage) collection. At that time, it sold for US$2 million— the highest price ever paid for a piece of jadeite jewelry, either in the East or the West.

In 1994, the necklace sold again at an auction in Hong Kong for US$4.2 million, again setting a new world record for jadeite jewelry. Since then, it has become one of the most legendary and important pieces of jadeite jewelry worldwide. It was last sold at a Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong in 2014 for US$27.4 million.

Acknowledgments

I would like to express my appreciation and thanks to the following: Mrs. Shanne Ng, Deputy Director Specialist jewelry, Hong Kong Sotheby’s; Fung Chiang, Vice President and Senior Specialist, Jewellery Department, Hong Kong Christie’s; and Professor Xuemei He, Professor at the University of Geoscience in Beijing, China.

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