Estimated reading time: 9 minutes
Lorenz Bäumer could have become an engineer. That is what his degree is in. He could have become a marketing executive. He is surely a master marketer. He could have become a movie star. He has the looks, talent and charisma. Instead, Lorenz Bäumer became a world class designer of high jewelry.
“Jewelry should be more than art. It should be an experience,” muses the designer. A visit to his art-filled and ultra-chic Paris salon Bäumer Place Vendôme, located at 19 Place Vendôme, a few meters from the Hotel Ritz—and this is quite evident.
For that experience, many of his clients fly in from all over the world. And like any true artist, it is important to him that they have a connection to his work. He will spend hours discussing (mostly listening) to potential clients before he ever agrees to create a piece for them. With no less than five of his creations on display in the Louvre’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs (three under his own name and two under a major brand), it is understandable why he is so particular.
How has this experience changed, if at all, during the pandemic? “The boutique remained open, but we did less business because people did not venture out so often,” he answers. And, the downturn offered the time “to create new styles and also redecorate the salon.” While custom pieces are a large part of his business, he adds, “We did more custom jewelry during this period than ever, but things are returning slowly to normal. We also kept in personal touch with our established clients around the world.”
“It is important to know and understand our clients,” he says. “Jewelry must perfectly fit the individual who will wear it, so it is important to learn what their favorite colors and gemstones are, about their lifestyles—who they are. Only then will it become more than just a work of art, but something that is truly a treasured experience.”
Bäumer has taken his “experience” philosophy to its pinnacle. A stroll through the Place Vendôme, with its upscale brands ranging from haute couture to haute horlogerie, you realize that it is the perfect setting for his salon. Stepping inside, it is instantly apparent that this is not going to be an ordinary shopping experience.
Glancing around, you know that you are in the presence of a talented artist, as Bäumer’s creative expressions are not limited to his exquisite jewelry. He has personally designed an all-encompassing environment of sensory experiences for his customers as they sit and relax while exploring with him the myriad possibilities that await each new creation.
“My studio is a very important part of my overall success,” he readily admits. “No detail can be overlooked, from the way clients are greeted to their final goodbye.” And indeed, when you spend time with Lorenz (as he prefers to be called), you realize just how adamant he is about that statement. From his genuinely charming personality to his uncanny sense of marketing to his genius for creating pieces that masterfully combine a strong sense of individualism and wearable elegance with just a touch of whimsy, you understand his success.
Contrary to many designers, Lorenz is not from a family of jewelers. After his degree in engineering, he turned to designing furniture. Jewelry ultimately caught his fancy, but without the money to create upscale pieces, he began by designing costume jewelry. “I started at the very bottom,” he says, “and learned both the craft and the business, always with an eye towards creating my own brand.” Each time he made a little extra money, he would pour it back into his business, gradually creating more and more important pieces, and attracting more and more customers, many of whom now collect his work.
A wide variety of materials are incorporated into his pieces. He especially appreciates colored gems that form the basis of many of his elegant haute joaillerie, but he is just as likely to design a sumptuous ear of corn that features diamonds and pearls or a vegetable bracelet with gemstone peas, grapes and all types of other legumes, or a whimsical scarab featuring titanium.
Lorenz often gets his inspiration from Nature. His love of surfing and the sea inspired the Aqua collection with pieces evoking the fluidity of waves swirling around a diamond or pearl or gem-studded sea urchins and other marine creatures. Back on land, the designer’s Enchanted Garden collection unveils its magical flowers in an array of gemstones and colored lacquer.
Taking his art to a different sensory level—that of smell—Lorenz designed the Olfactive collection, with a special titanium material created to retain the scent of perfume. Drawing on his engineering background, he plays with movement and volume in the Architecte collection. Inspired by Cole Porter’s Night and Day song, his Architecte Night and Day ring features a beautiful reversible opal—the sun on one side and the moon on the other.
One of the designer’s “crowning” achievements was in 2010, when he was approached by Monaco’s House of Grimaldi. Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene asked him to create a diamond tiara for her upcoming wedding. The result was Ecume de Diamants, which translates poetically as Ocean Spray. With its asymmetrical and fluid design, it evokes a breaking wave, and is both modern and extravagant, while paying tribute to the bride’s love of water.
Lorenz’s love of water also led to his “We Care” initiative. On one of his surfing trips in 2003, he discovered the island of Sumba in Indonesia. Beyond the splendid landscapes, he was immediately attracted by the smiles of the children who welcomed him. Their radiant faces, despite the difficult living conditions, never left him. “Every child, wherever he or she lives, represents the future of our planet, and they all deserve to grow up in the best possible conditions to be the actors of tomorrow’s world.”
Thanks to close cooperation with the Sumba Foundation whose main mission is to make life easier for the Indonesians on the island of Sumba, while respecting their culture and traditions, Maison Bäumer supports access to education for the island’s children. Inspired by Sumba’s cultural heritage—their sculptures, the pictures on their houses but also the weaving of their baskets—Lorenz designed a unique collection of silver pendants. The jewelry is made in the villages using their ancestral know-how. Each pendant sold provides seven children with school supplies for a year. Since the beginning of this project, Maison Bäumer has been supporting more than 20,000 children in cooperation with the Sumba Foundation.
Baumer-vendome.com. Images are courtesy of Lorenz Baumer.