In an industry long dominated by men, women are increasingly making their mark in the colored gemstone sector. They are directly involved in the mining, trading, marketing, cutting, and the gemological study of colored stones. Their contributions promote inclusivity, transparency, education and social responsibility, strengthening the industry’s global influence and growth.
Dealing in Stones & Stories
Amarjeet Grewal is the President and Co-Owner of KORITE Ammolite Ltd., the premier mine-to-market producer of Ammnite fossils and Ammolite gemstones, found only in southern Alberta. With over three decades of experience, Amarjeet has helped define the global story of this rare and extraordinary gemstone. Originally from Kolkata, India, Amarjeet’s journey to Canada shaped her resilience and drive to succeed in a field where few women had ventured. Beginning her career at KORITE, she quickly distinguished herself through expertise in operations, merchandising, and global sales, helping elevate the company into an internationally recognized name synonymous with authenticity and quality. During this time, she also guided innovative jewelry designs, influencing how Ammolite is presented in modern collections and strengthening her impact across the entire supply chain. In 2021, Amarjeet ventured out on her own, advocating for the
Ammolite industry and expanding her work into brand building, sustainable practices, and collaboration with Indigenous communities and Ammolite partners—further deepening her commitment to authenticity and responsible sourcing. Now back at the helm of KORITE, Amarjeet oversees every stage of production—from mining in southern Alberta to designing fine
Ammolite jewelry—ensuring the company continues to set the global standard. Her leadership ensures that each gemstone is showcased to its full potential, with creative design and ethical sourcing at the forefront. To Amarjeet, Ammolite is more than a gemstone—it’s a story of transformation, resilience, and natural beauty, born from Canadian Ammonite fossils found only in southern Alberta, where time and pressure transformed ancient life into living color. Through her work, she continues to share that story with the world, celebrating color, heritage, and authenticity in every facet. (korite.com; amarjeet@korite.com)
My chosen gemstone: I would be Ammolite. Its brilliance is ever-changing—no two pieces are alike—and that individuality speaks to me deeply. It doesn’t compete with other gemstones; it stands in its own light, reflecting every color of the spectrum. Its energy embodies trans-formation and resilience, formed over millions of years to reveal its iridescent beauty.
Ruth Benjamin-Thomas comes from a long line of traders, explorers, and diamond miners, people whose curiosity and pursuit of beauty run deep. Her fascination with color began early, inspired by the African beadwork of her heritage: pieces that told stories of women, identity, and belonging. “They weren’t precious in the traditional sense,” she reflects, “but they were deeply personal.”
In 2000, Ruth joined her husband, Justin, in his family’s wholesale opal business, a venture that evolved into Black Opal Direct, one of the world’s leading online destinations for opal education, sales, and storytelling. Opal captivated her entirely; its color, its unpredictability, its soul. Through years of travel, she has met miners, cutters, and merchants who share her devotion to the art of making beauty tangible. Her commitment to the gemstone industry and to the exceptional women within it led her to establish ICA GemWomen, an informal network of female ICA members who meet and collaborate at events from Tucson to Hong Kong.
As President of the Australian Opal Association, Ruth also contributes to the CIBJO Opal Guide, helping to spread knowledge and appreciation of this mesmerizing gem around the world. Today, through Black Opal Direct and her jewelry collection, Kindred Color, Ruth continues to explore the intersection of color, history, and craftsmanship. Each piece is, in her words, “a love letter to those who wear their confidence like a jewel.” (blackopaldirect.com)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would be an Opal of course! Like opal, I’m colorful, unpredictable, and a little unconventional at heart!
Vicki Bokros is a pioneering force in the Australian opal industry, with more than 30 years of experience across mining, cutting, wholesaling, retailing, and jewelry design. Her career began on the Gold Coast at age 19, when a chance meeting with an opal dealer sparked a lasting fascination with gemstones. In 1991, she traveled to Lightning Ridge for what she thought would be a brief buying trip, but a life-changing decision to spend her last $500 on a rough opal nobby—later named the Southern Princess—set her on a new path, leading to full-time wholesale work and eventually successful retail ventures.
Vicki spent 13 years living in a rudimentary miner’s camp, enduring harsh outback conditions and learning every aspect of the male-dominated opal mining trade. She became one of the few young Australian women active on the international wholesale circuit, including regular appearances at the Tucson Gem & Mineral Show from 1999 onward. As founder of Down to Earth Opals, she envisioned and built a world-class opal gallery that has become one of Lightning Ridge’s most successful and respected enterprises, known globally for outstanding quality, service, and passion. She is a qualified gemologist, registered opal valuer, former president of the Australian Opal Centre, and a dedicated volunteer and philanthropist within her community.
Choice of colored gemstone: Black Opal. Rare, valuable, mysterious, resilient, and forever changing, it is unmistakably Lightning Ridge. It embodies everything Vicki’s journey represents—rarity, resilience, and brilliance, with a depth of character revealed only through patience and skilled hands. It is the stone that first captured her imagination and drew her to Lightning Ridge, inspiring her to build a life and career her family once thought impossible for a young woman in a male-dominated mining town. (DownToEarthOpals.com.au)
Choice of colored gemstones: I would be Black Opal. It is rare, valuable, mysterious, resilient, forever changing, and unmistakably Lightning Ridge. It embodies everything my journey represents—rarity, resilience, brilliance, with a depth of character revealed only through patience and skilled hands. It is the stone that first captured my imagination and lured me to Lightning Ridge to pursue a life that my family thought was impossible for a young woman in a male-dominated mining town.
For the past twenty years, Manuela Soares has been leading entrepreneurial initiatives in Brazil, combining a passion for innovation with a deep commitment to sustainable business practices.
Holding a degree in Business Administration from IBMEC, she has built a career as a successful entrepreneur and startup investor, actively supporting ventures that promote social and economic development.
As the second generation of a family deeply rooted in the gemstone industry, Manuela continues a legacy of craftsmanship, authenticity, and integrity.
Currently, she serves as the Chief Strategy Officer at ArtOuro & Gemas, a renowned Brazilian company that has operated in the colored gemstone cutting and jewelry production sector since 1986. In this role, she focuses on long-term strategic growth, international market expansion, and integrating sustainability across the entire value chain.
Beyond corporate responsibilities, Manuela is committed to strengthening the gemstone ecosystem in Brazil. As Director of the Gemstone Chamber within the SindiJoias Ajomig System, she advocates for small-scale gemstone miners, ensuring fair representation in policy and regulatory discussions.
Additionally, Manuela serves as a Board Counselor at Wylinka, a non-profit organization dedicated to fostering innovation and entrepreneurship by transforming knowledge into impactful solutions.
Throughout her career, Manuela Soares has been guided by a profound belief in authenticity, transparency, and the human stories behind each gemstone—honoring the people, traditions, and sustainable practices that bring these natural treasures from mine to market.(artouro.com.br/gemas)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would choose to be Tourmaline, a truly colorful gemstone that reflects Brazil’s natural beauty, creativity, and resilience. Its vibrant energy and diversity of color symbolize how authenticity and innovation can illuminate even the most traditional industries.
Claudia Hamann is the CEO of Claudia Hamann Edelstein GmbH, a renowned gemstone company that she co-founded with her husband in 1990 in Germany.
With more than three decades of experience in the trade, Claudia has built a reputation for exceptional expertise, integrity, and passion for the beauty of natural gemstones. She studied gemology at the German Gemmological Institute (DGemG) and has been a Fellow of the German Gemmological Association (FGG) since 1989. In addition, she is a Fellow of the Italian Gemmological Institute (IGI), reflecting her deep commitment to continuous learning and international collaboration.
A long-standing member of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) for over 20 years, Claudia has served as ICA Ambassador for Germany and later as an ICA Director, contributing actively to the global gem community.
As a respected professional and a mother of two daughters, Claudia embodies balance, leadership, and dedication. She is passionate about fostering transparency, ethical sourcing, and the empowerment of women within the gem and jewelry industry.
Through her vision and steadfast commitment, Claudia Hamann continues to inspire others—proving that expertise, authenticity, and heart are the true gems that shape a lasting legacy in the world of colored stones. (claudiahamann.com)
If I could choose to be a gemstone, I would be a Blue Zircon—also known as Starlight from Cambodia. It shines with a brilliance that rivals the stars, its fire magnified by a remarkable refractive index. Rare and radiant, its deep blue hue mirrors the vastness of the sky, yet it is ever-changing, metamict in nature, a reflection of the subtle transformations we all undergo. And, as my birthstone, it carries a personal resonance, a jewel uniquely aligned with the rhythm of my own life.
Ashoo Sinchawla is a Director of Bangkok-based SANT Enterprises, which she has built over the past 40 years alongside her husband, Santpal Sinchawla. Together, they have transformed their family-run gemstone venture into a respected industry leader through strategic vision, disciplined management, and a deep commitment to integrity.
Her leadership philosophy centers on transparency, uncompromising quality standards, and a people-focused approach that empowers teams to excel. Her strategic insight has helped expand the company’s global presence while maintaining SANT Enterprises’ dedication to artisanal mining traditions and sustainable sourcing practices—values that continue to define the brand’s reputation.
Aside from her role within the company, Ashoo serves on the Board of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) and she contributes actively to the Communication, Congress, and Ambassadors sub-committees, where she helps foster global dialogue, strengthen international partnerships, and support the advancement of communication across the gem sector.
Ashoo describes leading the business alongside her husband while raising a family as both demanding and deeply rewarding. Balancing professional responsibility with home life has required perseverance and flexibility, yet it has also laid the foundation for a strong generational legacy now carried forward by their son, Anurak Sinchawla.
A familiar face at major trade shows around the world, Ashoo has long represented SANT Enterprises on the global stage, engaging with clients, colleagues, and partners while championing the values that define the company’s success. (SantEnterprises.com)
Her chosen gemstone: Blue Sapphire because it evokes timeless elegance, protection, and confidence, which make it a treasured stone that soothes, inspires, and connects me to beauty.
Bénédicte Lavoie discovered her passion for gemstones through Pierres de Charme Inc., the company her mother, Martine Lavoie, founded in 2012. Guided by her mother’s mentorship, she developed an appreciation for craftsmanship, ethics, and the stories behind every stone. Martine, now retired, remains a constant source of wisdom and inspiration, passing on years of experience in sourcing exceptional gems and building trusted relationships across the globe.
After completing a Bachelor’s degree, Bénédicte pursued gemology and earned the prestigious FGA designation (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain) with merit mention. Her path in the gemstone world has taken her across the globe, from Madagascar and Brazil to Sri Lanka, India, Australia, Thailand, and many more. Each journey has shaped her understanding of the trade and strengthened her respect for the people and stories behind each stone. Her time in Thailand in 2018 marked an important step in her career, where learning the art of lapidary deepened her technical understanding and refined her attention to detail.
In 2023, she joined the Board of Directors of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), contributing to several committees promoting education and transparency in the industry. Calm, observant, and quietly driven, Bénédicte brings a modern perspective to a timeless craft, where authenticity and beauty go hand in hand. (PierresDeCharme.com)
If I were a gemstone, I’d be a Color-Change Sapphire—a little unpredictable, quietly versatile, and always revealing a new facet depending on the light. I adapt easily to different situations without losing my core, and I’m drawn to depth, nuance, and authenticity, much like the gems I work with every day.
From childhood, Sally Patel has been captivated by stones and color. Her mother remembers how she would slip away during family outings to gather pebbles in every shade, arranging them into small, shimmering collages. Even then, Sally viewed color as a language—a way to express feelings and capture moments of light. As she grew older, painting became her creative outlet, deepening her understanding of how tones convey joy, peace, longing, and emotion. She had no idea that this early love of color would eventually lead her to the gemstone that would define her life: the Australian Opal.
After migrating to Australia in the late 1980s, Sally adapted to a new home while raising her children. In 1989, after a routine school drop-off, she wandered into an opal shop in Brisbane. There, a Lightning Ridge black opal caught her eye—alive with fire, depth, and shifting brilliance. That moment marked a turning point. Her fascination became a lifelong pursuit. She traveled through Queensland’s opal fields—Lightning Ridge, Winton, Yowah, and Koroit—learning from miners and discovering the stories within each stone. This passion grew into True Blue Opals Pty Ltd, now respected globally for authenticity and ethical sourcing.
Sally’s journey expanded worldwide as she visited mines across Africa, Asia, Latin America, Canada, and the USA, always sourcing gems with integrity. A portion of every sale supports Destiny Rescue and the Million Women Movement, reflecting her commitment to giving back. Guided by color and compassion, her story—featured a few years ago by GIA—continues to inspire collectors and gem lovers alike. (trueblueopals.com)
If I were to be a gemstone, I would be Opal. It makes a statement of uniqueness because no two are the same, yet its unites all colors into one gem. Each opal has a story, as we all have.
After years in diverse jewelry-related roles, Monica Stephenson entered the colored gemstone sector following a 2014 trip to East African mines for a documentary. Determined to address the education and resource gaps limiting local participation in the gem trade, she founded ANZA Gems in 2015. The company advances development in Kenya and Tanzania by purchasing gemstones responsibly and dedicating 10% of sales to education and entrepreneurial programs in mining communities.
Building on a successful Gemological Institute of America (GIA) pilot that delivered artisanal gemstone education to the Tanzania Women Miners Association, Monica helped launch Moyo Gems in 2018 with Pact, TAWOMA, AWEIK, and commercial partners. Moyo provides fair, transparent market access for women artisanal miners in Tanzania and Kenya. Several times a year, it hosts Market Days in rural areas of Tanga and Taita-Taveta, connecting miners directly with international buyers.
ANZA Gems then has the rough cut by women faceters in the United States or by a small network of artisanal faceters in Chiang Mai, Thailand, supporting women across the supply chain. Monica believes that gender equality uplifts entire com-munities by educating miners, creating pathways from miner to broker, cultivating women faceters globally, and championing designers who feature responsibly-sourced gems.
Based in Seattle, Monica is the past President of the Board of the Community for Ethical Jewelry (formerly Ethical Metalsmiths), serves on the Board of Directors of Gem Legacy, and sits on the Advisory Board of the Black in Jewelry Coalition. She continues advocating for inclusive growth in gem communities. (ANZAGems.com)
My chosen gemstone: I would have to say a Mahenge Spinel. There is something truly electrifying about the color, and it’s also a little enigmatic—not well known but coveted by collectors.
Lauriane Lognay, FGA, AJP, GIA, PJA, is a gemologist who earned the Fellowship of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain in 2016. She is also a graduate of the École de Joaillerie de Montréal (EJM), where she completed her formal jewelry training. Complementing her studies, she holds diplomas in gemstone and jewelry appraisal, along with specialized certifications in pearl, colored gemstone, and diamond grading.
A trained lapidary artist, Lauriane brings together tech-nical precision and artistic sensibility, allowing her to approach gemstones from both scientific and creative perspectives. In 2012, at only 21 years old, she founded Rippana Inc., a Montreal-based company offering fine gemstones, lapidary, and professional appraisal services. Her work is internationally recognized, and she travels regularly to sourcing regions such as Tanzania, Myanmar, and Madagascar where she personally selects high-quality rough and cut gemstones. These journeys deepen her understanding of the industry and strengthen her relationships with miners and local communities.
Beyond her entrepreneurial work, Lauriane serves as President of the Administration Committee of the EJM. In this role, she is committed to supporting the evolution of jewelry education across Canada. Passionate about sharing her expertise, she also writes about gemology and jewelry for professional and consumer publications, offering insights that inform and inspire both professionals and enthusiasts. Lauriane’s broad expertise and commitment to excellence continue to make her a respected voice in the global gem and jewelry community. (RippanaGems.com)
As for being a gemstone, I would choose Spinel any day! It is one of the brightest gems, on par with sapphire and ruby in their best quality, but not as ostentatious. Simple in the rough, but with the biggest potential once cut. A jack of all trades, colorwise.
Katherine Kovacs entered the gemstone trade in 1992, joining her family business, K&K Export-Import Co., founded by her father in 1968. From modest beginnings, the company has grown to offer an extensive selection of natural colored gemstones from Australia and the world.
When she began, there were few women in leadership roles in the industry. She was fortunate to be mentored by generous and knowledgeable people and she drew inspiration from women whose professionalism and clear insight helped shape her path. Their example continues to motivate her, and she is proud to see greater visibility for women today through initiatives such as ICA’s GemWomen group.
After university, she studied gemology with the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) and has served the GAA for more than 25 years in roles including Federal Secretary, Chair of Gem-Ed, and Federal Chair. Since joining ICA in 2011, Katherine says it’s like a large family built on integrity and shared values. She became an Accredited Ethical Member and remains passionate about promoting this across the trade as well as offering a personal approach to every client relationship.
In 2025, she was proud to be appointed the first female Director from Australia to the ICA Board. Helping to strengthen the integrity and future of the industry is her way of giving back to a remarkable community.
If I were a gemstone, I’d hope to be the one that makes you stop and say, “I’ve never seen anything quite like that before.” Something unexpected that captures your attention. Each of us is unique, rare in our own way, and I’d like to think that would be reflected in the gemstone I’d be.
Miriam “Mimo” Kamau has risen from humble beginnings to become one of Kenya’s most influential figures in the gemstone industry. Born into a disadvantaged family in rural Kenya, she was forced to abandon her dream of higher education after her father’s death in 1994. As the eldest child, she worked as house help to support her family before securing a job as a receptionist for a U.S. gem dealer in Nairobi—a role that launched her global career.
Recognizing her growing fascination with gems, her employer encouraged her to learn the trade. Through determination and self-funded studies, Mimo completed professional training in Kenya and South Africa, gaining expertise in gemstone identification, processing, cutting, and marketing. Over 25 years, she became a respected dealer and miner, despite operating with limited access to technology. Her resilience—working in harsh mining environments—earned her admiration from both men and women in the sector.
The founder of Mimo Gem Traders and Mining, she is also co-founder of AWEIK, an ICA Board member, President of the Colored Gemstone Africa Association, and one of the UK’s 100 Inspirational Women in Mining. Committed to community transformation, her leadership in such projects as the Kamtonga and Mnegwa water initiatives, school improvements, and educational programs has brought lasting change to mining communities. Guided by strong personal values and inspired by her family and mentors, Mimo continues to champion women in mining, sustainability, and the empowerment of future gemologists. (mimogems.co.ke)
Her chosen gemstone: Kijani Green Tsavorite. In Swahili, ‘Kijani’ represents a vibrant, hopeful green, and is the the highest praise for green hues. GUILD Lab adopted this term—that I coined. In its tsavorite color grading system, tsavorites (regardless of origin) with sufficiently high saturation and optimal brightness may have the ‘Kijani Green’ rating, the pinnacle of color quality.
Helen Plumb began her gemological career at the tender age of five, when her mother discovered her removing rhinestones from pieces of costume jewelry. A fascination with minerals carried her from school to Durham University, where she graduated with First Class Honors in Geological Sciences, before moving to Aberdeen to work as an Exploration Geologist for British Petroleum.
In her spare time, she studied for the Gem-A qualifications and was awarded the Tully Medal in the Diploma exams. Helen’s travels with a major oil company soon gave her the chance to put her gemological training to practical use, and before long she was buying gems for colleagues and their friends. When business meetings began to be interrupted by customers wanting to purchase gems from her, she decided to take the plunge, leave the oil industry, and devote herself full time to dealing in gemstones.
Twenty years later, she owns a beautiful shop from which she supplies gemstones to members of the jewelry trade, artisanal goldsmiths, investors, and private clients. The business also specializes in creating one-off pieces of custom-made jewelry. Her son Matthew and her husband Nick work alongside her, and together they travel the world visiting mining communities to learn more about the gems they sell at Just Gems.
Helen supplies all varieties of natural gemstones, with particularly popular choices being opals and British gemstones such as Derbyshire Blue John and Whitby Jet. Her shop—locally known as the Cotswold Gemporium—offers more than 65 different varieties of gems. (just-gems.co.uk)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would choose to be a Crystal Opal from Lightning Ridge, New South Wales, Australia. Formed in shallow, stable settings through diagenesis, these gems suit my sedimentary petrology background. Their diaphanous quality, shifting with skin or fabric beneath, gives them a chameleon-like charm, while brilliant flashes of color create a personality unmatched by other gemstones. Fine opals are costly and often underappreciated in the UK, so I give frequent educational talks to inspire greater admiration and sales.
Yongjie (Jane) Chen is an opal specialist, author, and educator who has spent more than fifteen years advancing the appreciation of Australian opal culture in China. Originally trained in computer science, she immigrated from China to Australia in 2006, where she was deeply moved by the unique beauty and mystery of opal. This fascination inspired her to study the gem extensively, visiting major mining regions across Australia to explore its origins and characteristics.
As one of the first Chinese scholars to systematically introduce opal to Chinese audiences, Jane has played a pioneering role in building cultural and academic bridges between the two countries. She authored two highly regarded books—Appreciation and Collection of Opal (2011) and Identification and Selection of Opal (2015)—which remain key references in the field. Through lectures, exhibitions, and collaborations with museums and jewelry organizations, she has earned recognition as a respected voice in the global gemstone community.
Jane Chen believes that opal, with its ever-changing play-of-color, symbolizes individuality and diversity—qualities she celebrates through her brand, Miraculous Opal. Her lifelong mission is to promote understanding, education, and cultural exchange through the captivating world of opal. (RedNote: chenyjane, @opalbyjane, chenyjane@gmail.com, WeChat: opalJaneChen)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would be an Opal, because it embodies diversity, emotion, and light within a single stone. Each opal tells a unique story—sometimes quiet, sometimes fiery—just like every woman’s journey in the gem world.
Xu Tianyin (Trisha) is an accomplished professional in the field of jewelry and gemology. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Jewelry Design from the China University of Geosciences (Beijing) and later pursued a Master’s degree in Contemporary Jewellery Design, Silversmithing, and Related Products at Birmingham City University in the United Kingdom.
In 2011, she was awarded the prestigious fellowship (FGA) of The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A), a recognition that firmly established her expertise and credibility within the gemological community. Her career in the gemstone industry has been deeply shaped by an enduring admiration for the beauty of Nature, which gradually evolved into a specialized passion for natural gemstones. Through years of academic research, creative exploration, and professional practice, Trisha has cultivated a thorough understanding of the global jewelry value chain.
Over more than a decade, she has acquired wide-ranging experience across mining, trading, design, manufacturing, and retail, enabling her to bridge artistic creativity with commercial strategy. In recent years, Trisha has focused her research on colored gemstones and broader jewelry industry trends. In 2023, she expanded her scope into sustainable supply chain management, becoming a United Nations-certified ESG senior strategy advisor (CIFAL Shanghai, UNITAR). In this role, she guides companies toward ESG compliance and readiness for public listing.
Today, she combines gemological expertise, cross-cultural design vision, and sustainability principles to promote responsible sourcing and transparent supply chains, advancing the jewelry industry toward a more ethical and sustainable future. (Trisha.xu@hotmail.com)
My chosen gemstone: I would be Alexandrite or Color-Change Sapphire. What I truly admire abut this color-changing phenomenon is the gem’s character, its ability to maintain an inner radiance and adaptive wisdom, no matter how abruptly the surrounding light may shift.
In 2003, Cissy Jia secured her first full-time position as an IT technician for a jewelry wholesale company in Australia (Wellington Jewellery). It was during this time that she encountered Australian black opal for the first time and developed an immediate, lasting fascination with it.
What began as a personal passion for collecting opal soon grew into a small part-time trading venture, created simply to maintain the cash flow needed to continue acquiring stones. By 2013, Cissy’s commitment to the opal industry had evolved into a fully established wholesale and export business, Opal Story Pty Ltd. She began purchasing directly from miners and supplying both domestic and international jewelry business owners. On the buying side, she aimed to build genuine, long-term relationships with miners by creating win-win situations. If a transaction brought her significant profit, she believed in being generous to the same miner in future dealings.
On the selling side, she traveled extensively, participating in jewelry shows around the world to open new markets and understand regional preferences. Through honest operations, consis-tent effort, and careful study of each client’s needs, Cissy gradually built a loyal global network. She feels profoundly fortunate to have transformed her passion for opal into a thriving career.
Her chosen gemstone: Black Opal because it is unique, a true marvel of Nature. It displays all the spectral colors as if rolling all the other gemstones into one. Each black opal is an example of natural art.
Alice M. Muthama is a second-generation Kenyan entrepreneur and a prominent voice in Africa’s colored gemstone sector. Representing Rockland Kenya Limited—one of East Africa’s largest and most established gemstone mining and exporting companies—she continues a family legacy spanning decades. Rockland Kenya Limited is renowned for producing ruby popularly known as the John Saul Ruby.
Raised in the trade, Alice has a deep understanding of the gemstone value chain and a strong passion for colored stones, industry development, and unlocking Kenya’s mineral potential. She actively promotes a mine-to-market philosophy, advocating for transparent, ethical, and globally competitive value chains that drive sustainable industry growth.
From 2015 to 2021, she served as a Board Member of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), distinguishing herself as one of the few African women to hold this position. She is also a Founding Board Member of the Association of Women in Energy and Extractives (AWEIK), where she served from 2016 to 2018, championing women’s leadership and participation across the extractives sector.
Alice is guided by the conviction that gemstones should equitably benefit everyone across the value chain—from mining and processing to cutting and jewelry making—ensuring that the sector remains profitable, sustainable, and capable of transforming lives. She holds an LLB in Law and an MA in International Public Relations from Cardiff University, building on this diverse foundation to strengthens her work in policy, communication, and international trade. (info@jnmholdings.co.ke )
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I think I would have to be a Ruby. Beyond my personal connection to it, ruby just feels like the perfect reflection of womanhood—bold, full of life, protective, resilient, and quietly powerful. In many ways; ruby feels like home.
Sabrina Leong never set out to be a gem dealer, but as anyone in the trade will tell you, colored gemstones have a way of drawing you in. Over the past decade, that fascination has become a profession built on trust, instinct, and an unwavering respect for what Nature creates.
At Mahenge Gems, she specializes in trading and marketing some of the world’s rarest and most coveted stones—from cobalt spinels and lush tsavorites to the vivid hot pinks that have made spinel great again. Her work is part science, part storytelling, and part serendipity—finding beauty in the unexpected, and connecting with those who recognize its worth. The company also places importance on ethical sourcing and treating their customers with respect.
Mahenge Gems is an Ethical Accredited Member of the International Colored Stone Association (ICA), the first of its type in the colored stone sector. “Being a gem dealer isn’t glamorous in the way outsiders might imagine,” muses Sabrina, “It means long flights, tough negotiations, and a surprising amount of Windex, but it is also deeply rewarding. It is the thrill of discovering a gem that you know is special, and having the quiet satisfaction of seeing it appreciated by someone who truly understands it.” (www.mahenge.com)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would choose Cobalt Spinel. A rare gem, it is rather electric with a spicy temperament and well-loved in spite of eye-visible flaws.
Fiona J. Tan is a Canadian GIA Graduate Gemologist, ICA member, jewelry entrepreneur, and modern-day gemstone explorer whose fascination with Earth’s rarest treasures began in childhood, traveling with her father across remote landscapes in search of ancient chalcedony and agate. These early journeys sparked a lifelong devotion to uncovering not only gemstones but the human stories and cultural heritage they carry.
Today, she operates two jewelry stores in Western Canada while raising three children, balancing motherhood with a global mission to protect, study, and honor extraordinary mineral wonders. For over a decade, Fiona has traveled beyond conventional gem corridors—from Alberta’s Bearpaw Formation, the sole source of gem-grade Ammolite, to Australia’s opal fields, Colombia’s emerald highlands, the Dominican Republic’s larimar and blue amber sites, and the sacred turquoise belts of the American Southwest. She has built deep relationships with artisanal miners, indigenous communities, and master cutters, learning that gemstones embody not only beauty and rarity but memory, history, and spirit.
A voice in gem education, Fiona co-authored and translated the first comprehensive book on Ammolite and introduced this Canadian treasure to Asian audiences through live-streams and international media. Her recent collaborative research on Canada’s ancient Auralite-23—among Earth’s oldest gemstones—was published in Gem-A’s Journal of Gemmology, marking a significant contribution to contemporary mineral scholarship.
Rooted in science, ethics, and reverence for Nature, Fiona illuminates the deeper truths of rare gemstones—the earth they come from, the cultures that protect them, and the people whose lives intertwine with their discovery. Her work inspires a profound understanding that precious stones are not mere adornments but chapters of the planet’s story, carried through light and time. (gemworldglobalinc@gmail.com)
My chosen gemstone: Auralite-23®, a crystal born from Earth’s ancient heart and carrying the quiet memory of deep time—shaped by pressure, endurance, and cosmic touch, yet within its rugged iron-rich exterior rests a luminous and tender core. In many ways, its story mirrors my own path as a woman in the gem world—strong when needed, gentle by choice, resilient in challenge, and radiant in spirit.
Zoe Michelou was born in France and spent ten years in Bogotá, Colombia, where her father introduced her to the world of gems at a young age. Though she grew up surrounded by the industry, her passion emerged at 17, when she began traveling with him to mining regions and international gem shows. These early journeys shaped her eye for gemstones and ignited a deep commitment to the craft.
While completing her business degree, she undertook a four-month internship in Thailand with one of the country’s leading high-end jewelry manufacturers. After a decade in Paris, she relocated to Thailand, completed her studies at GIA and Gem-A, and later contributed to mine-to-market strategies alongside a prominent Nigerian tourmaline and sapphire miner. Her father, Jean Claude Michelou—an authority on Colombian emeralds with more than 40 years of experience—encouraged her to start her own business and eventually became her partner. Following his passing in 2021, she continues to uphold his values of ethical sourcing, transparency, and dedication to the people at the source.
Although her roots lie in Colombian emeralds, she now supplies fine sapphires, spinels, tourmalines, and garnets to clients worldwide. What she cherishes most about this industry is the people behind each stone. Traveling to remote mining areas, discovering diverse cultures, and observing different ways of working have provided her with invaluable knowledge. For Zoe, gems represent far more than money or sparkle; they carry stories, traditions, and the hard work of communities whose livelihoods depend on the craft. She states that “supporting these communities is one of the greatest privileges of my career.” (ImperialColors.com)
My gemstone: Emerald. Not just because of my Colombian roots or that green is one of my favorite colors, but because they carry a quiet magic. When you look inside a fine Colombian emerald, its inclusions, ‘the Jardin,’ feel like poetry. They’re tiny landscapes, each one telling a story millions of years old. Colombian emeralds have a glow reminiscent of the lush mountains of the Boyacá region. Their green feels alive, as if they hold a piece of that land within them. What I love most is that emeralds embrace their imperfections. Their internal worlds are not flaws; they are identity, history, and character.
On the Cutting Edge
Women gem cutters and carvers have long brought artistry, precision, and intuition to the world of gemstones. Once a field dominated by men, gem cutting and carving—or lapidary—has increasingly become a space where women are shaping new standards of craftsmanship and creativity. From selecting rough stones to mastering intricate cuts that reveal each gem’s hidden brilliance, women lapidarists blend technical expertise with an innate sense of beauty and balance.
Their growing presence in the trade not only highlights changing industry dynamics but also celebrates the power of diversity and innovation. Whether creating their own style or reviving traditional techniques with modern flair, more feminine voices are entering the field and demonstrating that they are on the cutting edge.
Victoria Raynaud has wanted to become a gem cutter since the age of twelve. Growing up at the foot of France’s Jura Mountains—a region once renowned for its gem-cutting tradition—she found inspiration in the few remaining traces of that heritage, preserved mainly in museums.
At fourteen, she began an apprenticeship in Geneva, where she learned the precision and discipline of Swiss lapidary craftsmanship. After five years of cutting gemstones for prestigious European watch and jewelry houses, she continued her studies in Montreal, earning her FGA diploma in gemology.
Her career then led her to Bangkok, where she joined Vincent Pardieu’s origin determination research team at GIA. There, she contributed to refining laboratory methods for gemstone analysis and co-authored several gemological publications. Later, she moved to Bahrain to help establish the fabrication department at the newly founded DANAT Gem Laboratory, where she also taught introductory faceting courses.
In 2024, she and her husband, Justin K. Prim, founded Magus Gems, a cutting studio and showroom in Lyon, France. The studio focuses on precision gem cutting, education, and historical research. That same year, they launched Faceting Apprentice, an international school dedicated to teaching both modern and traditional cutting techniques.
In 2025, they published The Historic Teachings of Gemcutting, a book that revives and documents centuries of European faceting knowledge. Today, she continues to combine craftsmanship, gemological expertise, and education to bridge the artistry of the past with the innovation of the present. (MagusGems.com)
If I were a gemstone, I would be a Spinel. The gem is refined, resilient, and quietly brilliant. Once overlooked, spinel has reclaimed its place among the great gems, much like the traditional craft of faceting that I work to revive. Balancing precision with artistry, it reflects my approach to gem cutting: timeless, disciplined, and true to the stone’s natural beauty.
Born in Butte, Montana—home to some of the world’s greatest mineral mines—award-winning gem carver and jewelry artist Naomi Sarna grew up surrounded by minerals, gems, and fossils. This early exposure shaped her lifelong fascination with natural beauty and form.
Central to her art is the interplay of light, shadow, movement, and texture, along with bold, expressive color. While she describes carving as technically straightforward, she considers the creation of art—the vision behind each piece—the true complexity of her work.
Influenced by the flowing, sensuous lines of the Pre-Raphaelite and the Art Nouveau movements, Naomi transforms raw materials into sculptures, and has earned 23 Spectrum Awards in gem carving and jewelry design, as well as global recognition at China’s prestigious Zi Gang Bei Jade Exhibition, winning a Silver Medal in 2019 for Winter Bird, Spring Greens (white jadeite) and a Bronze Medal in 2017 for her nephrite Mossy River.
Working from her New York studio, Naomi’s creations have entered the Smithsonian’s Permanent Collection of American Gems and numerous private collections. Her first solo exhibition, Stone in Motion, debuted at New York’s Wilensky Mineral Gallery, where she also participated in Gemstone Masterpieces.
She was commissioned by the Maine Museum of Gems & Minerals to craft a piece celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Big Find. A member of the American Jewelry Design Council, Naomi Sarna’s pendant Fresh Breeze was featured at the Alfie Norville Gem & Mineral Museum in Tucson. (NaomiSarna.com)
If I were to be a gemstone, it would be Beryl. It comes in several colors, and encompasses Aquamarine, Heliodor, and Morganite. Those gems feel good and I love carving them.
Fascinated by rocks and crystals since she was a little girl, Michelle Mai spent her elementary school recesses prying minuscule garnets from crushed playground gravel. In her teens, she made beaded and wire-wrapped jewelry, later working for five years at a retail bead store.
That interest in gems and jewelry took a backseat while she earned a degree in biochemistry and began her career as a protein scientist in the food and biotech industry. In her late twenties, Michelle began searching for a new hobby and decided to combine her interests in rocks and jewelry by learning lapidary—starting with cabbing at a local club, then acquiring her own faceting machine and teaching herself gem cutting with the help of online resources and mentors. She quickly fell in love (some would say, became obsessed!).
In order to fuel her own magpie tendencies, she began selling some of her gems through social media and, as that gained traction, she founded her business, MVMgems, in 2019. Since then, Michelle has been steadily grinding away and has cut over 4,000 stones. She now primarily works with retail clients, both by commission and through direct sales.
She cuts both natural gems and synthetic materials, mostly using her own faceting designs, which are characterized by botanical and chemistry-inspired motifs, often featuring intricate crowns or frosted facets, and always aiming to create a beautiful play of light. (@mvmgems)
If I were to be a gemstone, I would choose Garnet. It comes in an incredibly versatile range of colors, is reasonably durable with great optical properties, and has appeal to both the everyday wearer (almandine, rhodolite) and the esoteric collector (blue garnet, white grossular).
Maggie Klinedinst is a Baltimore, Maryland-based lapidary artist and jeweler who finds working with her hands to be both meditative and essential for balance and joy. For over two decades, jewelry design has grounded her through life’s fluctuations, offering a creative outlet that merges artistry with precision.
In 2022, she discovered the lapidary arts and was immediately captivated. Learning to cut and shape gemstones herself deepened her connection to her materials and appealed to her mathematical side. She works primarily with earth-mined stones, embracing the creative and technical challenges that come from each gem’s unique structure and inclusions.
Her fascination with lapidary began at the Gem Cutters Guild of Baltimore where she has served as Vice President since 2024. Through her work, Maggie often celebrates the city she has called home since 2008. One example is her Baltimore Series that highlights the iconic Stoop Marble, a locally quarried material once used for the dazzling white steps that grace the city’s row homes.
Her focus on faceting seeks to reveal the inherent beauty, brilliance, and individuality (inclusions and all!) within each stone. Maggie’s artistry has been featured in Gem Guide, and she is a regular contributor to Rock & Gem Magazine, where she shares her passion for gemstone cutting and encourages others to explore the joy and precision of the lapidary arts. (MaggieKlinedinst.com)
As for a gemstone: I think I would want to be Spinel. It’s durable, reliable, comes in a range of beautiful colors and is more of a ‘if you know, you know’ type of gemstone. They have some of the best sparkle, and the silky ones have an ethereal quality about them.
For over four decades, Helen Serras-Herman has been carving gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind miniature sculptures and contemporary jewelry in 18K and 14K gold and sterling silver. Each carved gem is signed, reflecting her artistic vision and storytelling approach.
Inspired by her travels to mines and ancient archeological sites, as well as her Southwest surroundings and Greek heritage, Helen’s work often portrays mythological figures, gods, and nymphs. Her passion lies in gems with vivid colors, unusual patterns, and natural inclusions that tell geological stories—materials such as ocean jasper, larimar, turquoise, azurite, and exotic opals.
Born in New York City in 1956 to Greek parents, Helen was raised in Athens and studied sculpture in West Berlin (1976–1983). Returning to Athens, she transitioned from large-scale sculpture to gem carving under English master Nik Kielty Lambrinides (1983–1988), a period that also saw her earn a Gemmology Diploma from Gem-A.
In 1988, Helen founded the Gem Art Center and dedicated herself fully to gem sculpture and artistic jewelry. Her international background and deep appreciation for cultural symbolism continue to shape her distinctive style.
A member of the AGTA, the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, and the Gem Artists of North America—where she served as President in 2002–2003—Helen remains an influential voice in the gem art community. She released her book Carved Gems – Inspiration & Expertise during the 2022 Tucson gem shows and contributes frequently to professional magazines. (GemArtCenter.com)
As for my gemstone: With the ocean in my soul, I would probably be a Larimar, with different shades of blue, interlaced with white veins, occasional sprinkles of native copper flecks and red hematite dendrites, all of which create beautiful scenes with layering stories.
A dedicated lapidary artist, the passion of Émilie Gagnon shines through every cut and facet she creates. Her journey into the world of gem cutting began during her jewelry design studies, where she first discovered the artistry of working with precious materials.
It was, however, an introductory gemology class that truly captured her imagination. Learning about the science, the history, and the natural beauty of gemstones deepened her appreciation and set her firmly on a new artistic path.
After graduating from the École de Joaillerie de Montréal in 2020, Émilie faced the challenge of breaking into the jewelry industry. The opportunity came unexpectedly when Rippana Gems—one of her favorite gemstone suppliers—announced an opening for a lapidary artist. Although the position required no prior experience, Émilie’s enthusiasm, curiosity, and determination distinguished her from other candidates.
Following a successful interview and trial day, she was accepted into an intensive three-month training program that would launch her career as a professional gem cutter. More than four years later, Émilie continues to refine her craft at Rippana Gems, where she transforms rough stones into dazzling works of art. Her work reflects both technical precision and artistic vision, qualities that have become her hallmark.
Beyond her professional practice, she also shares her expertise with the next generation of jewelers by teaching faceting classes at the École de Joaillerie de Montréal. Through her teaching, Émilie inspires students and enthusiasts alike to discover the brilliance hidden within every gemstone, carrying forward her passion for the craft. (RippanaGems.com)
If I were a colored gemstone, I would choose Tourmaline. They come in such a vast range of color, and the pleochroism just make them more interesting to me.
At 20 years old, while pursuing her undergraduate degree in Industrial Design at Lawrence Techno-logical University in Michigan, Jenna Sloane discovered gem faceting on Instagram and decided to teach herself how to cut stones and, in 2023, she began faceting full-time after completing a five-day course with Boyd Fox just to ensure that her skills were proper and sharp.
Always drawn to hands-on creativity, Jenna finds motivation in inspiring other artists through her gemstone work. Now based in Oceanside, California, she is completing her Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma through GIA’s distance learning program. Though she had long admired her mother’s jewelry collection, Jenna initially found the jewelry industry intimidating due to its size and competitiveness. However, once she started cutting gems, she realized that the field offered endless opportunities—there would always be fingers, chains, and piercings ready for adornment. This insight made her dream of becoming an independent artist feel like it was within reach.
Combining her love of product photography with gemstone artistry, Jenna launched her Instagram account, @sloanestonez, where she shares her creations. She is gradually expanding her inventory with self-cut stones while continuing to offer gemstone repair services. Restoring gems to their original brilliance or cutting them directly from rough material remains her top priority. Jenna’s work is celebrated for its thoughtful orientation of inclusions and her preference for modified brilliant cuts. She also often incorporates star motifs into her designs, adding a signature sparkle that reflects her unique artistic vision. (@sloanestonez)
If I were to be a gemstone, I would choose hot pink Spinel because it is unique, spectacular, and bright. These are all traits that I aim to have myself. While it isn’t the gem for everyone, those who appreciate it are typically just as passionate as I am about gemstones.
Kory Pettman‘s career in the gem and jewelry industry is a journey from independent goldsmith and designer in her 20s and 30s to a globally focused gemstone faceter and expert in her 50s.
Based in San Antonio, Texas, she blends a sculptor’s eye with technical skill, actively participating in mining around the world, faceting fine gemstones, and creating custom jewels. Renowned for her particular passion for Montana sapphires, she routinely visits all of the state’s mines to gain an intimate understanding of their geology, unique characteristics, and the people dedicated to uncovering them.
Identifying as “equal parts girlie-girl and tomboy,” she finds joy in the grit of mining fieldwork and the delicate precision of cutting. For Kory, transforming raw earth into wearable art is profoundly satisfying, utilizing skills honed across her entire career, from mining and rough assessment to faceting and jewelry production.
In her cutting studio, she treats each gem as a new artistic challenge, one guided by intuition rather than strict adherence to traditional styles. “What really fires me up is creating contrasting and unconventional cuts with unique optics,” she says. Kory meticulously experiments with odd symmetry, extinction, split facets, and color saturation to produce dynamic designs, striving for perfect meet points and achieving a mirror-like polish up to 100k PCD.
Her expertise recently led to an important observation on an unusual sapphire from Montana’s French Bar deposit, an insight that has inspired a forthcoming Gems & Gemology feature article, co-authored by Pettman and other Montana sapphire experts. (@korypettmangems)
As for a gemstone, I have two: Color-Change Montana Sapphires, because they effortlessly shift hues depending on the light; and Chivor Colombian Emeralds that glow with lush, vibrant green with interesting inclusions.
From SKETCH to SPARKLE
Women jewelry designers are redefining the art of adornment with creativity, craftsmanship, and vision. Blending tradition with innovation, they transform precious metals and gemstones into powerful expressions of identity, culture, and emotion. Their designs go beyond beauty—they tell stories of empowerment, resilience, and individuality.
From fine luxury pieces to bold contemporary creations to exotic bespoke jewels, women are shaping trends, challenging norms, and inspiring a new generation of artisans. With every piece they craft, they celebrate not just elegance and artistry, but also the strength and spirit of women who bring their creations to light, from the starting sketch to their resplendent sparkle.
Caroline Chartouni’s journey as a jewelry designer is a testament to a lifelong passion for creativity and craftsmanship. With a family legacy spanning three generations in the fashion industry, she was immersed in the world of artistry and design at an early age—a heritage that laid the foundation for her original expression and pursuit of excellence in fine jewelry.
Educated in Fine Arts, Interior Design, and Fashion Design in Paris, Caroline refined her artistic sensibility and developed a deep admiration for composition, color, form, and the timeless beauty of gemstones. Her multidisciplinary background shapes her artistic vision, uniting the elegance of fashion with the precision of fine jewelry. While creativity is deeply rooted in her DNA, her formal training sets her apart as a designer who masterfully blends traditional craftsmanship with innovative techniques.
A passionate traveler, she sources the finest gemstones and infuses each design with their storied origins and rare character, thus ensuring that each creation reflects authenticity and respect for the craft. A celebration of Nature’s most precious treasures, her work is carefully curated and meticulously crafted into something magnificent. More than mere adornment, it is a story brought to life through form, color, and emotion.
It embodies a dialogue between heritage and modernity, celebrating individuality and the belief that true excellence lies in simplicity, authenticity, and elegance. (CarolineC.com)
For my gemstone, I’d choose Paraiba Tourmaline, a pulse of neon blue light, rare and impossible to ignore. I feel like this gem, which dances between calm seas and electric skies, full of color and energy. I shine like the Mediterranean Sea at sunrise, alive and full of quiet strength. Paraiba is a reflection of who I am at my best, with a hope to inspire, uplift, and leave a trace of beauty wherever I go.
Some women are born into the gem and jewelry industry, while others may marry into it. For noted designer Paula Crevoshay, however, the path that led her there was both unexpected and transformative.
From a very young age, she was certain she would be an artist, dedicating herself completely to learning, practicing, and experimenting with her craft. Her life took an extraordinary turn, however, when she married George Crevoshay, a brilliant scholar who received a Fulbright Scholarship and a grant from the American Institute of Indian Studies, allowing the couple to spend four and a half years in India. While George immersed himself in translating ancient Sanskrit texts into Tibetan and contributing to a Sanskrit–Tibetan–French dictionary of Dharma terms, Paula continued to explore her artistic passions in a vibrant new cultural setting.
Then, George’s own journey shifted dramatically after a trip to Pagan in Burma where he met an American investor touring ruby mines. George tagged along with him and was smitten! Captivated by the world of gems, he decided to become a gem dealer himself. Fluent in many Southeast Asian languages, he could negotiate directly with miners, have the stones cut in Bangkok, and then sell them in America.
When Paula saw the dazzling piles of colorful gemstones that began to fill their home, inspiration struck. To her, these were not mere jewels—they were art supplies. She realized she could sculpt in gold and paint, not with oil but with colorful gemstones, fusing her artistic vision with the beauty of the natural world. (Crevoshay.com)
If I were a gemstone, I’d be an Opal, sparkling with easy grace and charm. Like an opal’s dazzling play of colors, I’d flash a bit of fiery red passion one moment, then cool blue with the next. My iridescent glow would dance in the light, reflecting every mood and moment—never dull, always a surprise. Opals are bold yet dreamy, a little mysterious, and totally unique, just like me—ready to light up any room with a kaleidoscope of color!
For over 30 years, designer Katey Brunini has created fine jewelry that captures the power and grace of Nature. Her work juxtaposes precious metals, diamonds, pearls, and rare gems with organic materials like wood, bone, and coral—yielding a collection that is both raw and refined.
Founded in 1992, her brand, K. Brunini Jewels, has achieved global acclaim and numerous awards, including from the Women’s Jewelry Association, American Gem Trade Association, Couture Design Awards, World Gold Council, and the Interna-tional Cultured Pearl Association.
Katey’s creations are showcased in fine stores, art galleries, and museums worldwide, including Art Basel, Carnegie Museum, San Diego Museum of Natural History, University of Arizona’s Alfie Norville Gem & Mineral Museum, and the Smithsonian-affiliated Headley-Whitney Museum. Her work appears in books such as The New Jewelers by Olivier Dupon, Jewelry’s Shining Stars by Beth Bernstein, and Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry by Kyle Roderick.
Over the decades, her designs have been featured in The New York Times, Vogue, Forbes, W Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Town & Country, Allure, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan, and Robb Report. Brunini’s poetic, organic forms are infused with magical realism, color, texture, and symbolism.
Her Shapes of Strength collections include Twig, Vertebrae, DNA, Skipping Stones, Spider Web, Spirit Animals, Body Armor, and Brutalism. K. Brunini Jewels is a proud member of the Jewelers of America, WJA, ICA, GIA Alumni, and the American Jewelry Design Council. (KBrunini.com)
Her chosen gemstone: Opal because it is mercurial and ever-changing in a delightful manner.
From an early age, Pearl Ng has been captivated by art and fascinated by rocks and crystals. In high school, she began creating jewelry, selling pieces to friends for fun.
With her sights set on Industrial Design, she attended the Rhode Island School of Design, where she discovered a natural affinity for metals—the precision of technique balanced by the freedom and artistry of sculptural form. After graduating, she entered Product Design and later moved to New York to work in point-of-purchase design, creating displays for luxury global brands. There, she learned to express identity through materials and form.
Her curiosity for craft led her to explore couture, shoemaking, millinery, and leatherwork, and later to study silversmithing and sculpture during her Master’s Degree at NYU. She then began acquiring gemstones to refine her jewelry making skills and collaborated with craftsmen in New York’s Diamond District to create bespoke pieces. Those formative years taught her to merge storytelling and design with the intimacy of refined handcraft, deepening her understanding of fine jewelry processes.
In 2005, she moved to Hong Kong to launch Pearly, producing silver collections alongside bespoke fine jewelry. Her brand evolved over the decade, emphasizing bold gemstone use, and later relaunched in London, showing at London Fashion Week. Discovering GIA by chance, she completed her Graduate Gemologist degree, began visiting mines, and expanded into gem brokering—shifting her focus entirely to bespoke fine jewelry.
Since relocating to the UK in 2020, she has been rebuilding her business, collaborating with top artisans to create exceptional handmade jewelry, maintaining her lifelong passion for colored gems and dedication to trans-parency and mine-direct sourcing. (PearlyBespoke.com)
If I were a gemstone… Naturally, I’d be a Pearl! Having lived (or rolled) around the world since a young age, I’ve organically built a shiny career through grit and patience. I’m thickening my nacre and perfecting what I do still, one day at a time, and hoping to build a mirror-like AAAA finish with rainbows. A special thanks to mother-of-pearl for my birth name, which is miraculously well suited for this business and my tiny frame.
An experienced gemologist, gem hunter, jewelry artist, and gemstone investment advisor with over 30 years of experience in the global jewelry industry, the journey of Paloma Sanchez began as a GIA Gemologist and evolved into a lifelong pursuit of uncovering Nature’s rarest treasures.
Guided by respect for the Earth and a passion for artistic innovation, she travels the world in search of one-of-a-kind, collector-grade gemstones and mineral specimens. In December 2008, after 15 years working with prestigious international watch and jewelry brands, she founded Paloma Sanchez, The Art of Jewelry—a fusion of art and gemology. The first gallery opened in Beijing, followed by a presence in Paris and Dubai.
Sanchez’s work has earned international acclaim, including being named among the 30 Best Jewelry Designers in the World at Baselworld 2013, winning First Prize for her Medusa Sting necklace at the International Opal Jewellery Design Awards (now the Australian Opal Awards) in 2019, and receiving two Silver Awards at Italy’s A’ Design Award & Competition in 2023.
Most recently, she was honored with The Living Trace Award—equivalent to the Lorenzo il Magnifico President’s Award—at the XV Florence Biennale in partnership with the Cluster Contemporary Jewellery Fair (London). Committed to ethical sourcing and sustainability, which guides her work, Sanchez has led initiatives supporting women in African mining regions since 2016, striving to ensure that every gem she works with embodies dignity, respect, and opportunity. (PalomaSanchez.com)
If I were to be a gemstone, I would be an Opal—a gem of light, fire, and inner power. No other gemstone captures so many colors and mysteries within. It changes with its surroundings, yet always retains its fire. To me, it embodies creativity, passion, transformation, and the courage to reveal every shade of one’s soul.
Anushka Jain is the founder and creative director of Anushka Jain Jewellery, a Jaipur-based demi-fine brand redefining how modern women wear and experience silver. Born into a gemstone family, she also works with her father, Rupesh Jain, at Arham Gems & Jewels—one of Jaipur’s renowned emerald houses specializing in fine Zambian emeralds. This early immersion in gemstones shaped her understanding of beauty, precision, and authenticity within the jewelry world.
At just 19, Anushka launched her namesake label with a mission to blend India’s heritage craftsmanship with contemporary global minimalism. What began as a passion project has grown into one of India’s fastest-growing young jewelry brands, celebrated for its high-quality 925 sterling silver and gold vermeil pieces that are skin-safe, durable, and timeless.
Straddling both gemstones and finished jewelry, Anushka brings a rare dual perspective, from sourcing at the mines to crafting the final elegant piece. Under her direction, each jewel undergoes over 120 hours of meticulous artisanal work by more than 15 skilled craftsmen, upholding exceptional workmanship and ethical integrity.
Beyond design, she champions transparency, education, and emotional connection in jewelry, inspiring a new generation to look beyond trends and embrace lasting beauty. Anushka represents the evolution of modern Indian jewelry, an evolution rooted in Jaipur’s gemstone legacy, yet defined by a global, contemporary aesthetic. (AnushkaJainJewellery.com)
If I were to be a colored gemstone, I would be an Emerald because it symbolizes renewal, depth, and resilience. It’s not loud, yet it holds captivating power. Like the journey of building a brand, emeralds take time to reveal their true clarity—imperfect yet precious, just like growth itself.
Shahina Hatta is a second-generation gems and diamond dealer who founded her Fine Jewelry Collection and Bridal Concierge Service in 2014, following more than a decade of experience in the wholesale and retail precious stones and diamond industry across Hong Kong, Macau, and Vancouver. She earned her Graduate Gemologist Certification from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in 2007.
After her studies, Shahina joined her father, Chang Hatta, at Hatta New World Co., Ltd., where she gained invaluable expertise under his guidance in sourcing and handling rare and exquisite gemstones. Driven by a passion to make the world of fine jewelry more transparent and approachable, Shahina established her brand in order to offer clients personalized diamond education and a stress-free buying experience.
She approaches every project with genuine care—personally curating the finest colored gemstones and diamonds, designing bespoke pieces, and overseeing master gold-smiths as they handcraft each unique creation. Every piece she delivers marks a meaningful milestone in her clients’ lives.
Shahina’s Fine Jewelry Collection reflects her own sense of style—classic, timeless, and effortlessly elegant, with a playful emphasis on color. Each piece is designed for versatility, allowing for endless mix-and-match possibilities hat transition from everyday wear to special occasions. (BespokeByShahina.com)
Her chosen gemstone: I love all colored stones but I will narrow it down to Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl and Paraiba Tourmaline. As a complex and multi-faceted individual, I love Cat’s Eye because it’s a powerful gemstone with a wonderful balance of femininity and masculinity. I also identify with Paraiba Tourmaline because it possesses such a beautiful and happy Cerulean blue that exudes happiness and peace, which I feel is another part of my persona.
Born in Malta, Tayma Page Allies grew up in the Caribbean and West Africa, absorbing a spectrum of cultures as vibrant and varied as the gemstones she personally sources today. The rich and vivid cultures of her childhood ignited her love of color and bold designs.
In 1990, while organizing the first fashion show in China for a French fashion house, Tayma discovered a natural flair for jewelry design that would soon define her path. In 1991, she founded TAYMA Fine Jewellery in Hong Kong, which has become known for its collectable, high quality, and striking colored gemstone creations.
Over the years, she has pioneered the introduction of extraordinary gems such as Paraiba tourmaline, watermelon tourmaline, and Mandarin garnet to Hong Kong, captivating collectors worldwide with their rarity and intensity. Every piece of her jewelry is one-of-a-kind, handmade in Hong Kong by master goldsmiths whose skills bring Tayma’s vision to life.
From the electric brilliance of Paraiba tourmaline to the hypnotic fire of opal, each gem tells a story through color, reflecting Tayma’s philosophy of living life in color. “I’m a collector, and I’m always looking for the unusual, the rare and the collectable. It’s just what appeals to me and my passion, it’s what makes my heart skip a beat,” she says.
Renowned as Hong Kong’s leading gemstone collector and connoisseur, Tayma has consistently championed the local goldsmiths and gem-setters, proudly collaborating with and supporting Hong Kong artisans as a commitment to giving back.
(TaymaFineJewellery.com)
If I were a colored gemstone, I’d choose to be a fabulous, flashing, neon Paraiba Tourmaline, reflecting my colorful island life upbringing in Malta, the Caribbean, West Africa, and Hong Kong.
As a child, Rain Lee loved the arts. When it came to higher education, she attended the University of California in Santa Barbara, earning a degree in Economics, but also took classes in fine arts.
Upon returning to China, she realized that her heart just wasn’t in economics but rather in jewelry design. Her mother, a jade aficionado, realized Rain’s potential when her daughter was asked by several people to help design their own jewels. Rain’s efforts were so successful that she launched out on her own, creating one-of-a-kind and bespoke pieces, earning awards in several competitions along the way.
She says that there are two components to her design philosophy. First is inspiration from history, primarily mythology. Second is the art form, especially mixing two or more types to create original pieces. Among her first examples is Medusa’s Secret, a re-interpretation of the ancient Greek myth, and a 2024 winner of four JMA International Jewelry Design Awards.
To create it, Rain worked with factories in Panya to improve upon a special electro-coating process of gold, which allowed for both dark colors and a matte effect on the gold’s surface. “This technique also allows highly saturated colors—even two or more colors on the same piece,” she explains, adding that the process is so painstaking that she practically lives at the factory for weeks on end to get just the right tones.
Rain also works in titanium for special orders as well as with more traditional gold, colored gems, and diamonds. She is also a certified appraiser, as well as holding other industry positions. (YSLFINEJEWELLERY@hotmail.com; WeChat: yushuli1996)
My chosen gemstone: Paraiba Tourmaline. Its luminous color evokes tropical waters, suggesting vastness, clarity, and mental expansion. I’m also drawn to astrology, where Neptune and Uranus share this blue-green symbolism.Neptune represents imagination and artistic sensitivity, while Uranus signifies innovation and seasonal variation. Paraiba mirrors these traits, blending imaginative depth with creative novelty. For me, this gemstone holds special significance, symbolizing my own creative philosophy.
Elke Berr is the founder and director of Berr & Partners SA, a distinguished wholesale gem com-pany established in 1986, and the creative vision behind Elke Berr Créations, which captures the true essence of each gemstone—transforming it into a captivating story of its own.
Following in her father’s footsteps, Elke studied gemology and art in Germany. Her passion soon led her to Geneva, Switzerland where she became a skilled buyer for a prestigious jewelry house before embarking on her independent journey as a globe-trotting gem hunter at the age of 24.
Traveling across the world in search of extraordinary stones, her explorations of mining sites and encounters with artisans became a boundless source of inspiration for her jewelry. With several decades of experience in the gem industry, Elke began a new chapter in 2003 when her deep expertise laid the foundation for Elke Berr Créations.
For the first decade, she collaborated discreetly with renowned high-end jewelry houses, designing and crafting pieces of exceptional quality behind the scenes. A turning point came in 2013, however, when she expanded her creative horizons and launched her collections under her own name.
Today, Elke Berr Créations stands as a tribute to exceptional gemstones and masterful craftsmanship. Her avant-garde yet feminine aesthetic unveils the unique character of every stone—each possessing its own personality and untold story. Her enduring commitment is to bring those stories to life through artistry, emotion, and refined elegance. (ElkeBerr.com)
Her chosen gemstone: Spinel because it embodies discreet elegance and inner strength. It comes in an impressive array of colors, from vibrant reds and pinks to deep blues, each shade revealing a different facet of its personality, since I, too, have many different facets of my personality. I especially love Burmese spinel as I had the opportunity to buy them directly from the market in Mogok, which meant adding adventure and personal memories.
Rhea Poddar’s connection with gemstones has been lifelong. Born into a family deeply rooted in the art of gemstone carving, her childhood was filled with their allure. She still remembers being eight years old, coming home from school only to lose herself in the intricate carvings displayed at her parents’ gemstone exhibitions.
After graduating from NYU, where she studied Economics, she began helping with her family’s carving business during the pandemic. Immersing herself in that world rekindled her fascination and inspired her to change course. She decided to explore the gem industry in depth, enrolling at the Gemological Institute of America in Carlsbad, California.
The experience deepened her admiration for the ancient geological processes that created gemstones while broadening her understanding of the global gem trade.
When she returned to India, Rhea was filled with a renewed admiration for traditional craftsmanship. Over time, her desire to blend the art of carving with the beauty of jewelry gave birth to Deshya—a brand that makes the intricacy of artisan craftsmanship wearable and contemporary. Inspired by Nature, architecture, antiques, and the stunning palette of gemstones, she hopes to celebrate the rare and radiant spectrum that lies far beyond the conventional rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. (DeshyaOfficial.com)
Her chosen gemstone: Perhaps a Spinel—it comes in a spectrum of colours, much like my changing moods. Often mistaken for other gemstones, such as ruby, the spinel possesses an exquisite brilliance of its own—a reminder that first impressions rarely capture one’s true light.
- Cynthia Unninayar
- Cynthia Unninayar
- Cynthia Unninayar
- Cynthia Unninayar
